Beyond the crest: quantifying coastal protection and risk mitigation services of submerged reefs in the Mexican Caribbean
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.15517/4yf4vy69Keywords:
Coral reefs; wave attenuation; numerical modeling; reef roughness; Nikuradse (ks).Abstract
Introduction: Coral reefs function as natural coastal defenses by dissipating wave energy and reducing flooding and erosion. While the protective role of emergent reef crests is well documented, the contribution of submerged reefs remains poorly quantified. This study evaluates the coastal-protection function of two submerged reefs (Manchoncitos I and II) offshore Playa Paraíso, Quintana Roo, Mexico.
Objectives: (1) quantify wave height reductions associated with submerged reefs; (2) compare wave propagation under reef and no-reef scenarios; and (3) assess the sensitivity of wave attenuation to changes in reef roughness.
Methods: Numerical modeling (WAPO/REFDIF) was used to simulate wave transformation across the reef platform. A high-resolution bathymetric grid (4 × 3 km; 5 m) was developed using multibeam surveys, satellite-derived bathymetry, and in situ measurements. Simulations compared reef and no-reef scenarios and evaluated two Nikuradse roughness values (ks = 0.5 and 1.5 m).
Results: The reefs generated local reductions in significant wave height ranging from 0.5 to 1.5 m. Manchoncitos I produced the greatest attenuation, whereas Manchoncitos II exhibited a more heterogeneous response, including localized wave-focusing effects. Increasing reef roughness enhanced wave-height reductions and expanded the spatial extent of wave dissipation. Wave attenuation varied according to reef geometry, roughness, and incident wave direction.
Conclusions: Submerged reefs provide measurable coastal-protection services by reducing wave energy reaching the shoreline. Reef morphology and roughness strongly influence attenuation patterns. These findings support reef conservation and restoration to reduce coastal risk.
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